Located 27km (16 miles) south of Cork City on the south coast of Ireland, Kinsale is a harbour town with a population of just under 6,000 — a number that grows significantly during the summer months as visitors flock to its colourful streets and seaside charm. Known for its historic forts and welcoming locals, there is no better way to get to know Kinsale than on foot. The best part is, as you build up an appetite, you get to savour Kinsale's world-renowned food along the way! If you're staying in Cork City, Kinsale is easily accessible via regular bus services or a 30-minute drive.
We'll start our walk at Charles Fort, located southernmost tip of Kinsale's Summercove and directly across the harbour from our endpoint James Fort. First built between 1670 and 1682 by English forces to protect Kinsale from French and Spanish naval attacks. Amazingly well preserved, given the turmoil it faced over the centuries, especially during the Spanish invasion of 1601 and the subsequent Battle of Kinsale. From the walls of Charles Fort you can see the unfolding walk ahead, into Kinsale town and across Kinsale Harbour. For those wishing to enter the fort, there is an admission fee of €5 for adults and €3 for children. A walk around the exterior of Charles Fort is well worth it too, this is free of charge and offers stunning photo ops!
A 4-minute downhill stroll from Charles Fort brings you to The Bulman Bar, one of Kinsale's most loved hideaways and worst-kept secrets. While inside the bar is a standard cosy Irish pub, the main draw is the pier outside. If the weather is suitable, you can sit and watch the Atlantic Ocean lap against the walls of the pier while you enjoy a quick coffee or a slow pint. Maybe a touch early on our walk to be stopping for food, but if you're waiting for a break in the weather, or if the mood takes you — the monkfish or seafood chowder (both of which are delicious, by the way) should offer enough sustenance to take on the next leg, the Scilly Walk.
Heading northwest from the Bulman, along Ardbrack Heights, you'll come to a junction in the road. Here, you can take a left onto the Scilly Walk, or continue straight on along High Road. Of the two choices, the Scilly Walk is by far the more scenic, but High Road offers possibly the best vantage points for photos of anywhere in Kinsale. High Road also brings you past the hillside homes known locally as "Millionaire's Row", — a string of properties that hit the market at prices that would make a mere mortal's eyes water! Both paths eventually join together at the junction with Lower Road, close to the Spaniard Inn, so it is possible to take one option and then the other as a loop. But, for the sake of this walk, and the fact that lunch is calling from across the harbour, we'll go ahead and take the High Road. On the map below you'll see the High Road marked as our main route, with Scilly Walk running parallel just underneath.
Sticking to the map below, means that you will just skim the western edge of Kinsale town. But we highly recommend a detour into the town centre. The narrow pathways and brightly painted buildings that are dotted throughout are a sight to behold. Again, there are fantastic photo opportunities at every turn — especially when the weather behaves. Like most places, Kinsale is a lot prettier when the sun is shining, but the difference between a dull and grey Kinsale versus a sunny Kinsale is quite striking! Maybe it's something to do with the multicoloured buildings? Anyhow, regardless of the weather, Kinsale is a unique town that is well worth a stroll through. And, unless you get lured into one of its many tempting shops, you can stroll through the town centre in about 20 minutes.
Close to the centre of town, you'll find the unofficial "Food Hub of Kinsale". Facing Kinsale Harbour you'll find Dino's Fish & Chips, Max's Seafood and Bruno's Italian Eatery. But the real jewel in the crown here is Fishy Fishy. As the name suggests, seafood is the star of the show, and in our humble opinion it doesn't get much better. It's more of a sit-down and take your time restaurant than the other options, but it is well worth the wait. Insider tip: Keep an eye out for two fish and chip vans on the way to the Dock Beach. They are only around in the warmer months of the year, and tend to sell out of fish quickly during busier times of the season. Still their chips alone are worth the detour.
Heading south from Kinsale Harbour, we'll embark on the longest leg of our walk. Follow the R600, keeping the harbour on your left-hand side, until you reach Archdeacon Duggan Bridge. On this side of the bridge, you'll find the fish vans we mentioned earlier — so if you're feeling lucky, you can skip lunch at the harbour and grab something fresh here instead. As you cross the bridge, take a moment to enjoy the stunning views of Kinsale Harbour and the lush countryside that surrounds it. Once across, turn left, keeping the harbour on your left-hand side once again, and follow the road until you reach the Dock Bar. Turn right here to head toward Dock Beach, also known as Kinsale Beach. Depending on the time of year — and the weather — the beach can range from completely deserted to absolutely packed. If conditions are not ideal for the beach, a quick refreshment stop at the Dock Bar is always a welcome alternative.
Just a short walk from the Dock Beach and up a fairly steep pathway, you'll find the entrance to James Fort. While not as preserved as Charles Fort, it is nonetheless a worthy end point to our walking tour. Built around 75 years before Charles Fort in 1607, James Fort became known as "old fort" for a time to distinguish it from its star-shaped counterpart across the water. And, speaking of across the water, this is a great spot to get of a few snaps of the lesser-seen views of Kinsale and its harbour. Today, James Fort is more of a ruin than a visitor attraction and the lack of upkeep is noticeable, here you'll find crumbling walls, unkempt grass and a general sense of wilderness, but that's part of the charm!
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