A day trip to Muckross House and Gardens, Killarney

Cycling Muckross Road

From Killarney train station I clipped on the helmet and turned down Muckross Road, or as the locals call it, "Killarney's Hotel Walk of Fame". Some of Ireland's best-known and most prestigious hotels line the road on the way out of town, so things turn scenic long before you ever reach the park. I stopped to get a few pictures of the heavier hitters along the route, passing the likes of Randles, the Dromhall, and Cahernane House.

One thing to note about the cycle for anyone planning the same route: for most of Muckross Road there's a cycle lane on both sides, which makes for a nice, relaxing spin. Do be careful on the final stretch towards Muckross Estate though. For roughly the last 1km the lanes simply vanish, and you're suddenly on a country road with dips, bends, and everything that comes with it, alongside cars, trucks and tour buses. The trees canopy heavily over certain parts as well, meaning it can get surprisingly dark even in the middle of the day. Make sure you've got your high-vis, bike lights and helmet. If you'd rather not bring your own bike, there are a couple of rental spots along the road, closer to the Killarney town side and about a ten-minute walk from the train station. The cycle from the train station to Muckross Abbey takes about 15 to 20 minutes in total.

Muckross Abbey

My first proper stop was Muckross Abbey, a wonderfully atmospheric ruin tucked just inside the park at the Killarney town end. Founded back in the 1400s and burned by Cromwell's troops in 1652, it's a stunning old stone ruin that is well worth parking the bike up for a wander around.

For me, the most interesting part is actually the graveyard around the back of the abbey. It's the resting place for centuries of locals, including some of Kerry's most notable poets and chieftains, and the whole setup is as eerie as it is peaceful. Once you've had a look around the headstones, you can step straight inside to explore the rest of the abbey ruins.

Muckross House

From the abbey it's a flat 5-minute cycle to Muckross House, the 19th-century mansion that gives the estate its name. Sitting about halfway between the abbey and Torc Waterfall, it's the natural hub of Killarney National Park, the spot where most of the paths and cycle lanes meet up. Built in 1843 and designed by Scottish architect William Burn, the 65-room Tudor-style house sits between Muckross Lake and Lough Leane. The park was first made public when the estate was donated to the Irish government in 1932.

The jaunting cars are part of the furniture out front, and they're great fun, especially if you've got young kids exploring with you, and a great way to sit back and photograph the scenery as it rolls past. They aren't cheap though: expect to pay around €120 per go. They take you from Muckross House out to either Torc Waterfall or Muckross Abbey and back, roughly 25 minutes in the cart altogether. If you are cycling, there's a few designated bike parking spots in the area, with one big one right in front of the house alongside the jaunting cars' main base, handy for leaving the bike while you head off on foot.

The majority of Killarney National Park is cyclable, with the one exception being the area in and around Muckross House and its gardens. The no-go zones are clearly marked, so it's easy to follow your route. The cycle paths are shared with the jaunting cars, so you'll be riding alongside the horses as well as people out walking. There's an unwritten rule here that the horses always get the right of way, so pulling in and giving them plenty of room will usually get you a tip of the hat from the driver — a tip of your helmet in return, and you're back on track.

Lunch at the Muckross House Restaurant

By the time I'd had a good look around the house, I was ready for a bit of lunch. The restaurant sits to the side of the house, opening onto the main courtyard, and it does a decent spread of hot and cold lunches, tea and coffee, and cakes, with seating both inside and out. The one thing worth knowing is that the queue for the hot food section can be seriously long at lunchtime. If you're in a rush, do what I did and grab a sandwich and a coffee, and maybe a sneaky dessert while you're at it — you deserve it after all that cycling.

Muckross Gardens and the Lakes

After lunch I stepped out through the restaurant's outdoor seating and straight into the famous gardens, with the big 19th century greenhouse straight ahead. The formal gardens are the kind of place you can happily lose an hour in, before you loop back around the house and down toward the water.

Muckross Lakes

The path from the house brings you out to the lakeshore with views across Muckross Lake and out toward the mountains beyond.

Look up above the lake and you'll spot the high wall of Mangerton. Right on top of it sits the Devil's Punchbowl, a glacial lake that stares straight down over Muckross Lake. The locals use the mountain as a sort of pessimistic weather gauge: if the summit is clear and sharp, it will rain very soon; if it's covered by mist, well, it's already on top of you.

The Boathouse on Muckross Lake

Keep following the shore around from the gardens and you'll reach the old boathouse, sitting right on the edge of Muckross Lake. It's an easy spot to miss if you're focused on the house and the gardens, but it's well worth the short detour down for the views back across the water.

Torc Waterfall

Last stop before turning back for Killarney was Torc Waterfall, down at the far end of the park, on the opposite end of the route from the abbey. It's about a 7-minute cycle from the house, followed by a 2-minute walk up from the car park to the waterfall. The woods on the way up, and even the restrooms near the tunnel bridge entry are photogenic. You can basically turn your camera 360° at any point and get a decent shot.

Just a heads up on the path before you go. Once you come through the little tunnel bridge just after the restrooms, the ground turns into exposed roots and a dirt path for the short climb up to the waterfall, so it's definitely not one for anyone with mobility issues. And, the rocks down by the falls themselves can be very slippy too, so it's best to keep children, and older or less-able visitors, from venturing too far out onto them.

Back at Killarney Train Station

The whole route loops neatly back to where it started: Killarney train station, directly across from the famous Great Southern hotel. The platform in the station has a handy little shop selling coffee and sausage rolls, if needs be. Hopefully, it won't be another thirty years before I make it back down to Muckross.

Looking back on my Muckross day trip

By the time I rolled out of Killarney I'd ticked off an abbey, a stately home, a garden, a waterfall and a good lunch. The cycle back is simply the day in reverse: from the waterfall past the boathouse to the house, then on past the abbey again and onto the road toward town. For more info about cycling in the Muckross Estate and a handy cycling map, check out Killarney Bike Rental.

So, is Muckross House worth a day trip? Absolutely. It's a great way to see the Muckross side of Killarney National Park, and the cycle out along Muckross Road, hotels and all, is every bit as enjoyable as the sights themselves. Here are a few more photos from the day.